Tuesday, 17 April 2012

Lecture notes

Research project drafts- General feedback

- 18th April - Final deadline
- Research project
-Presentation
-Blog
-One hard copy
-One CD
 Submit at Wise by 2pm

Essay feedback

sentences like, "Lack of respect has become an issue over time"  - about what?  too vague.. how much time?  shows no research

- Need to be more specific for essays, needs to factual. Interrogate your sentences
- Instead of saying, 'This proves that' - say things more like ' this suggests that'

Overview
-Referencing
-Unsubstantiaed opinion
-Lack of referencing

References- Instead of writing loads of names just write one and then put et al

Make sure your powerpoint also reflects your critically - got to be meaningful

Research

For my project my chosen topic is size zero models, i am questionning whether the use of size zero models is unjust and unnessesery.


FIGURES AND STATISTICS

80% rise of young girls admitted to hospital with anorexia in the last decade
150000 women die a year anorexia
The CDC says that for ALL EATING disorders, where the eating disorder is the DIRECT or the UNDERLYING cause of death, from 2002 to 2005, there were an average of 150 deaths per year.

CASES

Topshop were asked to remove an image of model Codie Young off the website after an outcry from eating disorder organisations. The models was retaliated as complained that she was naturally that size and it wouldnt matter how much she ate because she would still weigh the same and she shouldnt be punished for that.


In madrid model, Luisel Ramos (22) lived off only lettuce leaves and diet coke for 3 months before dying of  heart attack, her sister who was only 18 also later died of a heart attack due to malnutrition.


MEDIA INFLUENCE

The media has an enourmous amount of influence over everyone but when it comes to how we should look young girls are particularly effected by the amount of pressure piled on them to look a certain way.

DONT BAN SIZE ZEROS

Leading fashion magazine Elle claim that stopping the use of size zero models will encourage people to become overweight. 
My thought- Stopping the use of size zero models wouldnt mean we would start using obese models.. it would mean using healthy sized models, which would mean not putting pressue on people to loose or put on weight but rather to be happy with their natural look!

AMERICAS NEXT TOP PLUS SIZED MODEL

Tyra Banks started this show and the criteria for it was age 13-19  sized between 12-20. As much as i look up to Tyra for being a supposedly 'plus-size' model... Encouraging a 13 year old to be a size 12 definatley isnt healthy! The show itself definatley is a good idea, but i think they need to find a more appropriate age and size range that fit in with each other.

DIFFERENT COUNTRIES, DIFFERENT RULES

I noticed different countries use different size guidelines for their models. Although this might be seen as a good thing as those countries dropping the use of size zero models may actually encourage other countries to follow suit.. this isnt always the case. Due to advanced technology we all have very easy access to find out what is going on in other countries ect.... therefore even if our country banned the use of size zero models we would still be influenced by the use of them in other countries! 

Researching has definatley helped me to widen my knowledge on this topic and will enable to plan and write a better essay as i am able to have my own opinion and view point



Which area of Creative practices particularly interests me?

Although my area is Fashion i also have interests in things surrounding that such as photography, mainly fashion photography and how models are portrayed and what models are made to look like to sell certain garments. I enjoy taking photos but i am really interested in looking at how photos have been put together and decoding them. The main thing i notice about fashion photographs is the use of very skinny models, they are used consistantly. The angle models are often shot at is interesting too, the are shot so they are towering over you and you are looking up at them. Primarly this makes them look more powerful and in control which lures you in, however as i look at photos like that more i notice it also makes them look taller and thinner. It makes you wonder which was the photographers intention.

Friday, 9 December 2011

Bauhaus

Bauhaus, was a school in Germany that combined crafts and the fine arts, and was famous for the approach to design that it publicized and taught. It operated from 1919 to 1933. At that time the German term  Bauhaus, literally "house of construction"  stood for "School of Building".


The Bauhaus school was founded by Walter Gropius in Weimar. In spite of its name, and the fact that its founder was an architect, the Bauhaus did not have an architecture department during the first years of its existence. Nonetheless it was founded with the idea of creating a 'total' work of art in which all arts, including architecture would eventually be brought together. The Bauhaus style became one of the most influential currents in Modernist architecture and modern designThe Bauhaus had a profound influence upon subsequent developments in art, architecture, graphic design, interior design, industrial design, and typography


The Bauhaus had a major impact on art and architecture trends in Western Europe, the United States, Canada and Israel (particularly in the White City of Tel Aviv) in the decades following its demise, as many of the artists involved fled, or were exiled, by the Nazi regime. Tel Aviv, in fact, in 2004 was named to the list of world heritage sites by the UN due to its abundance of Bauhaus architecture; it had some 4,000 Bauhaus buildings erected from 1933 on.


One of the main objectives of the Bauhaus was to unify art, craft, and technology. The machine was considered a positive element, and therefore industrial and product design were important components. Vorkurs ("initial" or "preliminary course") was taught; this is the modern day "Basic Design" course that has become one of the key foundational courses offered in architectural and design schools across the globe. There was no teaching of history in the school because everything was supposed to be designed and created according to first principles rather than by following precedent.


One of the most important contributions of the Bauhaus is in the field of modern furniture design. The ubiquitous Cantilever chair and the Wassily Chair designed by Marcel Breuer are two examples. (Breuer eventually lost a legal battle in Germany with Dutch architect/designer Mart Stam over the rights to the cantilever chair patent. Although Stam had worked on the design of the Bauhaus's 1923 exhibit in Weimar, and guest-lectured at the Bauhaus later in the 1920s, he was not formally associated with the school, and he and Breuer had worked independently on the cantilever concept, thus leading to the patent dispute.) The single most profitable tangible product of the Bauhaus was its wallpaper.


Wednesday, 7 December 2011

Lecture six

Postmodern space and time: Retro and vintage or unorginal and old?

- We live in a "postmodern" society
- "Postmodernity" a key concept within contemporary art and design
- 'Postmodernism' cant be understod in isolation from 'modernism'
- Some theorists argue that postmodernism is merely an extension of modernism
- Zygmunt Bauman has called it "Liquid Modernism" because it is so hard to pin down

Modernism
- Was no a "period"
- Describes a wide range of texts that influence how we now think and experience the world
- Co-exsisted with other styles and concerns
- Concerned with other styles and concerns
- Concerned with "meta-narratives" ; unified explanations
- Was a direct extension of Enlightenmen thinking/philospohy

The key concept behind Enlightenment thoughts are:

- Universe is rational and can be understoof through the use of reason alone
- Truth is arrived at through empirical observation, the application of reason, and systematic doubt
- Mans experience is key to mans understanding of truth
- All life, both social and individual, can be understood and humans are no exception
- Therefore, mankind can be "engineered" in the same way as the natural world
-Mankind is progressing
- Education and the development of their rational facilities can improve a person
- Religion has no place in a rational understanding of the physical and human world

- Modernism is a cultural movement which rebelled against Victorian mores
- Modernists presented the Victorian "civilized" as greedy and warmongering (instead of being industrialized rations and cash - based economies as hypocrites (rather than christians) and as enemies of freedom and self- realisations
- Initially modernism was concerned with evidencing progression
- World war 1 had a massive impact on modernists and hence, modernism.
-Nationalism was seen to be a source of conflict
- Fine art became increasingly apolitical, avant garde and abstract art for arts sake
- Design was driven by "reason" ; radical break with preceding forms
- Was "international" or "transitiona style
- Le corbusier referred to buildings as "machines for living"
- Driven by the bauhaus - "forms follow function"


- Clothing, cloth and footwear began to be rationed in the Uk in 1941, june.
- Rationing wasnt lifted until 1949, 2 years after the end of hostilities
- 1942 - the incorporated society of London fashion designers
- Included Hardy Amies, Digby Morton, Victor Shebel, Angele Delange, Peter Norman Hartnell
- Manafacturers using the CC41 label were forbidden from using any unnecessary trimmings, extra pockets ect.
- Created 34 utility clothing designs
- The British government introduced laws designed to give weight to the utility scheme
- Made it illegal and unpatriotic to use excess material


- "The Mao Suit"
- Argueably the epitome of modernist, "form follows function"
-Modernism struggled to survive world war 2
- Its utilitarian principles were employed in the rebuilding of Western society
- Seen as unhuman and restrictive
- Term "Postmodernism" orginally used to describe an architectual style
-Reaction to the "International Style" of high modernism
- Concerned with decoration; playful
- "style over content"
- Frequent references the past, other disciplines popular culture, ect.

- Identity as "text" to be "written"
- Roland Barthes' the language of fashion
- Identity is not fixed it can be 'rewritten'
- "Intertextual"
Music Video- Christina Agularia - Aint no other man

- 50's style
- Old fashion clothes, instruements, mise en scene

- Taste is not "neutral" or natural"
- "denaturalising" material culture
- Tase is an ideological construct
- Ideology= Body of ideas or beliefs"
- Notion of 'good' and 'bad' taste linked to class system and morality
- Taste of the "masses" was of concern to social engineers and philanthropists
- Public art galleries and museums intended to "educate" the masses
- Not neutral spaces; invariably presented an ethnocentric vision of the world.
- Taste in not only a part and index of morality, it is the only morality. The first and last, and the closest trial questions to any living creature is ' What do you like?' Tell me what you like, I'll tell you what you are"
- John Ruskin, English critic and reformer (1819-1900

-Taste and fashion are most definatley linked
-Changes in what is considered fashionable determines ht is considered good and bad taste
- The consumption of prestige items helps establish an individuals society identity
- Consumer culture; you are what you consume
- Still very much in evidence today


-Thorstein Veblen in The Theory of the lesuire class (1899) coioned the phrases:
- "conspicious consumption"
- "conspicious leisure"
-"things" have meaning beyond their function or "use" value (Marx, Capital)
-Focus of the post - Industrial, postmodern individuals excistence is the acqusition of "things" whose "symbolic exchange" values form and specific social identities (Baudrillard symbolic exchange and death) increased controversies sales
-Young black consumers now account for approx 60- 85% of Hennessy's US sales.

Taste no longer simply "trickles down"
- Styles also "trickle- up"
- Style spotters actively seek out the nex underground, "authentic" look
- Evidence of this can be found in the speed with which subcultural identifiers are turned into styles
-Disconnection of subcultural styles form their originary contexts
- eg. Punk 
- e.g hip hop
- he music industry has typically been a white dominanted one despite black subcultures being the source of many popular and powerful genre
- While there have long been black performer in the industry, black ownership of record labels started relatively recently

N.W.A- ' Fuck tha police' - FBI contacted the record label- song should not be allowed to be listened to.

Saturday, 26 November 2011

50 cent- Candy shop analysis

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRcnnId15BA&ob=av2e

- Big mansion, expensive car- money/power
- Male 50 cent comes out of car- focus on him
- Door opens,  lots of women in lingerie all looking at him
- walks up the stairs past them all- superior
-  sexual references "ill let you lick the lollipop" - then points downwards
-  woman singer shows control, "ill have you spending all you got"
- women use their bodies as their control/power
- fur coat on male- expensive/ gangster
- girls dancing whilst he looks down on them from a balcony- superior
- " as soon as i come through the door, shes pulling on my zipper" - as if he is sought after
- he only ever refers to her body- all shes worth? all he cares about?
- chamagne- expensive- taking advantage?
- girl singer- fur coat- equal power?
-  "go ahead girl and dont you stop" - control/ he has authority
- ends as a daydream when really hes just at a drive thru called "candy shop" - all men think about is women/sex?
- woman serving him- inferior

Lecture Five

Marcus Harvery- Myra Hindlet, 1995 - Made her face out of childrens handprints- someone threw black all over it in a gallery as it was seen as offensive

Although the painting caused a stir when it was shown in the Royal Accedamy in 1997. The painting also recently caused some controversies as it was shown in a short three minute video of london, shown at a london 2012 event held in beijing

Andres Serrano- Piss Christ, 1989- Uk didnt care- America was very offended as they ar every religious

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-13124769 - a BBC news article i found on piss chirst, about relativley recent vandalism to the piece.

Book

' The death of the autor'  Image, music, text by Roland Barthes.
Barthes- ' meaning is nt created by the autor'

Micheal Craig- Oak tree, 1973
- plays around with language- signs and symbls ect.

Language of art, design and media: todays lecture.

- Death of the author
-Everything is a 'text'
-Structuralism
-Post- Structuralism
-Meaning
-Meaning constructed
-Visual communication
-Intertextuality
Innocence lost: the politics of looking and making

Part 1- Looking and making as political practices.
Images- Edokard manet, Olympia, 1863
-Offensive, white prostitue, not ashamed

Vicky Pollard, Little Britian- omly funny to certain classes to others its personal and offensive.

Mercatr Projection, 1569
Euro centrism- putting European concerns at the centre of our world
- makes the size and dominance smaller or bigger
- designed in the age of discovery for European people.

Peters projection, 1973
- The design you end up with is effected by the position you occupy
- The things we make are not natural/ neutral.
- Equally sized on the globe- equally sized on the mp.
- Based on land mass
- Politics of representation
- Decision was made on which way up the map should be- puts people on the Northern hald of the equator in dominance.

The lecture argues that:

- Looking is nt a vlue free activity
- No 'innocent eye'
- Looking take place from a position, changes what we see.
- Awareness of the location from which we look helps us to move from describing to analysing

Ideology: A word view

- Karl Marx (German Philosopher and political economist) writing in the 19th century during the rise of capatilism and industrialism

-Those who own means of production control ideas.
- Argued that economics determines culture
- Looks at relation of capatilism to class

Rupert Murdoch
- Owns 80% of media- people scared to speak out about him- he has the power to publicly humiliate someone.